- Written by: Mona Biedrzycka
Roots and Beginnings
Kristian Baumann’s journey is a tapestry woven with threads of diverse cultural influences. Adopted from Korea as a baby, Baumann grew up in a small city outside Copenhagen, Denmark. His Danish parents, who had already adopted a girl from Korea before Baumann, were soon blessed with another son. Despite his non-Danish appearance, Baumann experienced a traditional Danish upbringing filled with love and cultural inclusivity. His family regularly participated in Danish-Korean cultural events, often celebrating with food—a precursor to Baumann’s future passion.
Though initially drawn to sports, his stint at a boarding school with a rigorous focus on physical education revealed an unexpected love for cooking. While his peers struggled with peeling potatoes, Baumann found solace and joy in the kitchen. This newfound passion led him to culinary school, where he honed his skills, first as an apprentice at a small inn and later through enriching school trips to Amsterdam and Italy.
Trials and Triumphs
After culinary school, Baumann's quest for belonging led him through various traditional Danish kitchens. His pivotal moment came when he moved to Copenhagen and joined Noma as a stagiaire. This experience broadened his horizons, propelling him to a small hotel in southern France. However, a harrowing incident—a robbery and stabbing—tested his resilience. Despite the trauma, Baumann completed his tenure in France, returning to Copenhagen with renewed determination.
Baumann’s career flourished as he collaborated with Christian Puglisi to open Manfreds and Relæ, marking a profound period of creativity. However, his yearning for personal expression persisted. Conversations with René Redzepi and Peter Kreiner led him back to Noma, contributing to their international projects and launching Restaurant 108. Here, Baumann began infusing his culinary creations with Korean influences, a prelude to his signature style.
KOAN: A Culinary Harmony
The tumultuous period of COVID-19 forced many to reevaluate their paths. For Baumann, it was a clarion call to authenticity. The closure of 108 in 2020 marked the end of an era and the birth of a new vision. Teaming up with Lasse Peder Nielsen, Baumann embarked on a journey to create KOAN—a restaurant where his dual heritage could truly shine.
Initially a pop-up in collaboration with the Empirical Distillery, KOAN quickly garnered acclaim. The team’s resilience and adaptability saw them through subsequent lockdowns, during which they offered takeaway dishes to sustain their connection with diners. When the opportunity arose to occupy the former Relæ space, KOAN found a temporary home, refining its concept in anticipation of a permanent location.
In April 2023, KOAN opened its doors at a site rich with historical significance—a memorial to the Danish medical ship Jutlandia, which had aided Korea during the Korean War. This 23-seat restaurant has a singular vision: to marry Danish and Korean culinary traditions into an extraordinary 17-course tasting menu. Each dish at KOAN is a testament to Baumann’s journey, blending meticulous technique with heartfelt storytelling.
A New Dawn
Within just ten weeks of opening, KOAN earned two Michelin stars, a testament to the profound impact of Baumann’s culinary vision. At KOAN, the chef has crafted a dining experience and a personal manifesto that celebrates his unique fusion of Korean roots and Danish upbringing. The restaurant is a sanctuary where the team works harmoniously, creating an environment that values work-life balance, creativity, and dedication.
Kristian Baumann’s KOAN is more than a restaurant; it is a culinary homecoming. Here, Baumann has found a way to articulate his identity through food, offering diners an intimate glimpse into his life’s journey. For those lucky enough to experience it, KOAN is a sublime exploration of flavours, history, and the soulful intersection of two cultures.
In Copenhagen’s vibrant culinary landscape, KOAN stands as a beacon of innovation and authenticity, inviting all to savor the rich, intertwined legacies of Denmark and Korea through the eyes of the chef who has finally come home.
The complexity of his cuisine is celebrated by wine pairings, non-alcoholic options, and Korean Sool—traditional alcoholic drinks. The minerality of these drinks is light yet dense enough to match the intricate balance of his dishes.
Driven by a committed sustainable ethos, his philosophy extends to more than the minimum restaurant waste. Instead, it spreads further into the community, consciously selecting smaller-scale artisanal producers and suppliers and ensuring the restaurant's working week allows for staff downtime. This not only aids businesses in competing with larger suppliers and, in turn, provides a living for them and their families but also ensures a healthy work/life balance for the people who dedicate themselves to the creativity of KOAN.
Inside KOAN: the beauty of simplicity and light
The cosy interiors at KOAN are all about warmth and elegance, featuring a neutral palette of light ash wood, backlit screens, and gentle lighting. The well-spaced tables and stylish chairs are designed by Danish legends Hans Bølling and Nanna Ditzel, and are made locally in Denmark. Handpicked from Korea, the tableware adds a unique touch with special pieces from individual artists. One standout is a collection of bowls crafted by a Korean artist who has integrated fragments from the Ming and Qing dynasties into new porcelain, symbolising the connection between old and new. Inspired by these "Reborn" bowls, Kristian created a dish of white kimchi that changes with the Danish seasons. The service at KOAN perfectly matches the serene interiors—carefully choreographed, informative, yet discreet, creating a calm, sensory ambience.
Dinner at KOAN: A Flavorful Fusion
The meal starts with seafood snacks and hedgerow pickings like pear in kimchi, raw Norwegian shrimp, and cured Danish zander with oyster and sansho pepper leaves. There are vibrant dishes like calamansi citrus with trout roe and wasabi and pepper pork mandolin with a crisp, caramelised bottom. An unexpected highlight is the steamed Korean dumpling in a fiery Korean red chilli and mussel sauce, paired with white kimchi and scallop in sudachi, a sour Japanese citrus fruit.
As the courses progress, the focus shifts to letting the produce shine with minimal manipulation. Dishes like king crab and oyster stew, langoustine with magnolia, and ribeye with kimchi showcase the ingredients beautifully. The twisted, doughy Korean doughnut, kkwabaegi, served with sea salt and cream, provides a delightful finish to the savoury courses.
The wine list at KOAN is equally impressive, featuring favourites like Krug, La Grande Chatelaine, Marguet Ambonnay Rosé, and Robert Groffier Cru Les Hauts Doix, all priced reasonably for Copenhagen. Additionally, the selection of Korean spirits and unfiltered wines, including Takju Yunguna, Takju Makgeolli, and Hwayo X Premium single-grain whisky, adds a unique touch to the dining experience.
Each dish at KOAN is a flavorful story of Baumann’s journey, blending the best of both worlds into an unforgettable dining experience.
KOAN
Address: Langeliniekaj 5, 2100 København,Denmark
Telephone: +45 28 74 78 40
Email: booking@koancph.dk
Website: Koan
Opening Times: Tuesday to Friday and one Saturday a month, 6 pm-12 am
AWARDS
2 Michelin stars 2025 Nordic selection
50 BEST DISCOVERY 2025
OAD TOP 100 - 83 Europe TopRestaurants 2023
Best Restaurant in Denmark 2023 by Berlingske Danish Newspaper
Best New Restaurant in Denmark by White Guide Denmark 2023
