- Written by: Chefluencer Editorial Team
Exactly twelve months ago, the Madrid dining scene shifted on its axis when Rubén Hernández Mosquero finally pulled back the curtain on his most personal project yet. After a decade-long odyssey through the world’s most formidable kitchens, including stints at Noma, Geranium, Azurmendi, and Minibar by José Andrés, Hernández Mosquero returned to the Spanish capital with a pedigree few can match.
Having famously led the elite Research & Development department at New York’s Atomix, he brought a clinical, experimental edge to a menu that was never destined to be "just another opening". But nobody quite predicted the sheer velocity of its ascent to the top of the international gastronomic food chain.
EMi is a masterclass in culinary tension, where the surgical precision of New Nordic technique meets the ancient traditions of Japanese and Korean kitchens. Despite the international flair, the soul of the restaurant remains stubbornly rooted in the chef's own Extremaduran heritage.
His unique language of deeply flavoured broths, intricate preservation, and the avant-garde use of seaweed as a defining ingredient all reflect a journey that began in a small village and traversed the global stage, resulting in a cuisine of remarkable technical depth that has already snatched a Michelin Star and a Sol Repsol.
The technical obsession in the kitchen is matched only by a feat of sheer logistical madness in the cellar: the team has not repeated a single wine pairing in an entire year of service.
Led by Miguel Ángel Millán —the man named the World’s Best Sommelier by 50 Best—the beverage programme is a living, breathing beast. Drawing on a dynamic collection of over 1,300 references, Millán treats every service as a bespoke narrative, even integrating a dedicated wine course directly into the menu. From cult sakes to iconic Spanish vintages, the goal is to ensure no two guests ever experience the same liquid journey twice.
This relentless pursuit of excellence has made EMi a magnet for international acclaim in record time. Beyond its Michelin credentials, the restaurant was crowned La Liste’s Best New International Opening and has secured its place in the prestigious Hot List 2026, Guía Macarfi, and Tapas Magazine. Critics have particularly noted the restaurant's ability to build a distinctive, world-class identity within Spain's competitive gastronomic landscape in just twelve months.
"Celebrating our first anniversary is a moment we approach with immense gratitude and a deep sense of responsibility. We are profoundly thankful for the warm reception EMi has received and for the continued support of our guests, collaborators, members of the press, distributors and, above all, the entire team who make this project possible every single day. Reaching this milestone encourages us to keep evolving and striving to offer an even better experience, while remaining true to the essence and philosophy on which EMi was founded," Rubén Hernández Mosquero and Miguel Ángel Millán
As EMi enters its second year, the atmosphere inside the restaurant is less about resting on laurels and more about an evolution into a "new chapter".
For Hernández Mosquero and Millán, the accolades are simply fuel for a project that views every plate and every glass as an evolving experiment in honesty. They remain committed to sharing the knowledge acquired in the world's most demanding kitchens, proving that Gaztambide is now a mandatory stop for any serious global diner.
Practicalities:
Restaurant: EMi
Address: C. de Gaztambide, 64, Chamberí, 28015 Madrid, Spain
Open: Thu - Mon for Lunch and Dinner (Tue and Wed closed)
Booking: restaurant's website
