Merlin Labron Johnson - Osip

Last summer, Chef Merlin Labron-Johnson welcomed guests to his all-new restaurant and rooms, completely reimagining his original Osip. This move has further elevated Chef Merlin’s West Country field-to-plate philosophy.

Located in the heart of rural Somerset just outside the village of Bruton, team Osip thoughtfully refurbished a 16th-century inn located just a few minutes' drive from the mainline train link at Castle Cary (or Bruton)—90 minutes from central London’s Paddington Station. The new venue was a larger, freehold site, allowing for an exciting evolution where Merlin built on the foundations of Osip, extended his relationship with the land, and enhanced the guest experience. His new vision attracted backing from investors Johnny Smith and Daniel Willis, who were already established London restaurateurs.

 

The kitchen at Osip didn’t begin in the historic building but in the nearby fields surrounding it. Almost all the produce used in Merlin’s menus was grown between two nearby farms and orchards. The commitment to sustainability, already a core value among Osip’s, remained a fundamental element. Biodynamic and seasonal availability, determined by climate and not calendar, was at the heart of this West Country restaurant. Osip aimed to open up conversations beyond the restaurant’s dining room so that guests could enjoy the connection to the land and the context of their menu.

Osip - Photo Maureen M.Evans

Think freshly foraged native herbs that speak directly of West Country flavours. Dishes of herb broth are served with crudités of farm vegetables and tempura potato, salted egg yolk, and chives. Gnudi with peas, broad beans, and smoked whey sauce or the potato brioche brushed with lamb fat, whipped butter, and cured lamb heart, emphasise this contact with nature. The cheese course is interpreted as a Fruit Toast topped with melted Tunworth Cheese, finished with honey and truffle, followed by an intense melon and cucumber sorbet.

Osip-Maureen M Evans, Rebecca Dickson   

The beverage list extends Osip's philosophy. Wines from small-scale, sustainable growers join local spirits and traditional ciders like the annual Osip Cider, made with heritage apples, barrel-aged in collaboration with Martin Berkeley of Pilton Cider. Bespoke pairings are available on request. In addition, the sommelier and team produce their own in-house drinks, including both alcoholic and non-alcoholic options, such as sorrel and green apple juice, as well as a soda prepared with blackcurrant leaf.

“Each visit to the new Osip change—the light, the season, the time of day. We are very proud of what we built at Number One Bruton, and I am excited to expand on our relationships and knowledge to offer our guests the warmest hospitality and dining experience I can.” - Merlin explains.

This new iteration of Osip passionately celebrates immersion into a landscape and its people, creating a genuine sense of place.

The last service at Number One Bruton was on June 30th. 2024. The new Osip opened at the beginning of August. 

What awaits in the new restaurant's interiors?

Architects Bindloss Dawes has worked with team Osip to bring to life the historic building, from the ground-floor restaurant to the four bedrooms upstairs. Originally a coach house erected in the Elizabethan era, the historic building's architectural nuances are infused with traditional elements that reflect its history, reimagined for a modern mood. Considered furniture pieces inspired by local traditions in Somerset reflect the location and contrast with more contemporary and bespoke elements.

Built-in window seats and the lines of free-standing modernist furniture are softened with upholstery covered in wool, leather and the finest traditional horsehair fabric from John Boyd Fabrics in Castle Cary. The bar was made locally from English walnut in the studio of Forest + Found, featuring shelves behind it in cherry wood and a mirror. The dining space at ground level boasts a view through the open kitchen over the garden and into the rolling fields beyond. The space encourages visitors to move through it gradually, as they would in a gallery.

The gardens have been created by the local, award-winning landscape design studio Urquhart and Hunt, utilising native plants to enhance the health of the natural habitat. There is a separate garden where guests can also experience the on-site Osip plant nursery. It’s here that some of the kitchen produce is brought to life before being transferred to the main farm. Visual art and contemporary craft will combine within the venue to produce installations that form dialogues between landscape, material and process.

Get ready to visit Osip starting August 2024

Address: 25 Kingsettle Hill, Hardway, Bruton, Ba10 0ln

Opening hours:
Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday - dinner only
Friday, Saturday, Sunday - lunch and dinner

Website: https://osiprestaurant.com/

Strategist, storyteller and dedicated observer of the culinary world. She writes at the intersection of gastronomy, culture, and place. With a background in luxury branding and a sharp editorial eye, she collaborates with chefs, creators, and institutions to craft narratives that resonate globally. As co-founder of Chefluencer, she champions a global community of culinary voices with insight, curiosity, and a deep respect for craft.